"Sometimes there's so much beauty in the world, I feel like I can't take it, and my heart is just going to cave in." (American Beauty)
Iceland was for me a collection of "first-times", first time Iceland, first camping experience, first Road Trip with my boyfriend, first summer in the cold north, first Aurora Borealis, first time fishing, first time seeing whales .... This will be for sure, the longest post on my blog, so I separated in small parts so that will be easier to read.
My fascination with this island and the wish to visit it started with the movie "The secret life of Walter Mitty". When the film came to German cinemas, I was going through a difficult phase of my life. The movie is about the outbreak into the unknown, to take courage and your own destiny into your hands. Of course, I didn't directly broke up and emigrated to Iceland, there was so much to do and it is so much beauty things happen, so it was this year that the time (and I) were ready for the island.
My fascination with this island and the wish to visit it started with the movie "The secret life of Walter Mitty". When the film came to German cinemas, I was going through a difficult phase of my life. The movie is about the outbreak into the unknown, to take courage and your own destiny into your hands. Of course, I didn't directly broke up and emigrated to Iceland, there was so much to do and it is so much beauty things happen, so it was this year that the time (and I) were ready for the island.
When I think about the past two weeks (19.08 to 03.09.), so many pictures come into my head, so many beautiful memories! I see how the clouds go down the mountains like waterfalls, I see dancing colorful lights in the night sky, I hear the male whales singing for the females and I can hear their breathing, I see ice crystals in my tent and the dandelions in morning dew, I can smell the sea and the fresh fish and I feel the wind of the fjords caressing my face.
The preparation
For those like me who are beginners in camping-matters, I can give some good tips based on my personal experience. It's exciting when you are doing something for the first time, but you also don't have a plan! Camping, what do I need??
The weather in Iceland is constantly changing, almost every hour and very fast. The maximum day temperature in summer not even reach the 15°C and in the evening can go under zero ... but sometimes, it is also warm . Rain, clouds, sun, strong wind and fog may alternate at a distance of a few km. It is better to be prepared for all weather conditions! Here always apply the onion principle (I needed to get used to it).
Packing for me is always a challenge, especially if I only can take hand luggage or a backpack and that for all weather conditions, but I have found it a super duper Video!
For those like me who are beginners in camping-matters, I can give some good tips based on my personal experience. It's exciting when you are doing something for the first time, but you also don't have a plan! Camping, what do I need??
The weather in Iceland is constantly changing, almost every hour and very fast. The maximum day temperature in summer not even reach the 15°C and in the evening can go under zero ... but sometimes, it is also warm . Rain, clouds, sun, strong wind and fog may alternate at a distance of a few km. It is better to be prepared for all weather conditions! Here always apply the onion principle (I needed to get used to it).
Packing for me is always a challenge, especially if I only can take hand luggage or a backpack and that for all weather conditions, but I have found it a super duper Video!
I needed to get a few things first: hiking boots, that are Weatherproof, clothes that keep you warm and dry quickly, T-Shirts, even more T-Shirts, fleece jacket, this one Here I can highly recommend, Trecking pant, Leggings (for under the Trecking pant, it was maybe too thin) and this beautiful rain coat, that not only protect from the rain but also from the wind. I took also sneakers, flip-flops (very important for the camping shower), swimsuit, a down vest and scarf. I didn't take my winter coat, beanie and gloves but I really recommend to take them.
Iceland is very expensive. You pay in a Restaurant according to the region between 25 € (Pasta for example) and 40-50 € (fish and meat) for a court for one person. Therefore I also recommend a camp stove. We were suggested this one here, but unfortunately too late, because we were already in Iceland. Some campsites have cooking facilities and BBQ and nearby there are supermarkets or gas station, where you can buy food and gas bottles for the camp stove.
The wind in Iceland should not be underestimated, as was told us in the rental car agency, by the way we had the best price-performance ratios, after we have compared car rental rates with other travelers. But now again to the wind .... yes the wind is very strong, our tent has collapsed twice, because that is too high, you can stand inside! Lucky us it didn't break. The best is a tent where you can lie or sit inside and look for a place that is protected from wind. A sleeping mat is a must-have and of course the sleeping bag, but with a comfort temperature range in minus degrees. Mine was unfortunately only rated to 4°C, I had to sleep like an onion otherwise it was too cold, I´ve really missed the beanie in those nights.
The campingsites
Free camping is possible in Iceland, but I maybe wouldn't because the ecosystems are very sensitive, you dont want to destroy anything, we should respect nature and the warning signals. In the national parks free camping is strictly prohibited. But in Iceland they have campsites everywhere and also at the farms they offer camping spots, you just need to ask. The Highland is only possible from June to August and only with four-wheel-drive or Super Jeeps.
With the Camping Card have 2 adults and up to four children have access to 41 campsites, no prebooking necessary. Camping tax (approx 110kr represents less than 1 €), electricity, Washing machines, sometimes Internet and the showers (50 to 500 kr depending on campsite) is paid separately ... oh the hot shower after a cold, long hiking day is worth all the money!
Most of the campsites are very good, with the perfect view, hotspots, beautiful and well maintained common areas (many times with guitar and cajón), kitchen and many offers of outdoor activities, as well as bars, restaurants, and museums nearby. Toilets and showers are always available. The closer you get to Reykjavik, the fuller the campsites, better to get there in the afternoon and not at night, otherwise the better places will betaken.
With the Camping Card have 2 adults and up to four children have access to 41 campsites, no prebooking necessary. Camping tax (approx 110kr represents less than 1 €), electricity, Washing machines, sometimes Internet and the showers (50 to 500 kr depending on campsite) is paid separately ... oh the hot shower after a cold, long hiking day is worth all the money!
Most of the campsites are very good, with the perfect view, hotspots, beautiful and well maintained common areas (many times with guitar and cajón), kitchen and many offers of outdoor activities, as well as bars, restaurants, and museums nearby. Toilets and showers are always available. The closer you get to Reykjavik, the fuller the campsites, better to get there in the afternoon and not at night, otherwise the better places will betaken.
The adventure
I don´t want to create here a TOP 10 ... ehem..TOP 100 list, I want to tell you about my trip and the places that impressed me or I like the most. I think you should take time for your trip, discover the country and landscapes for yourself, visit it depending on how one feels and not after a guideline or travel catalog. "The route is the goal"
Every day was we spent in Iceland was different! The weather, the landscape ... everything in constant change.
WEST
Wedrove the ring road (A1) counterclockwise, starting in Sandgerði, the nearest campsite to Keflavik Airport. Directly next morning we drove to Kjóastaðir where the campsite Skjol is located. There is a small hostel and a nice bar-restaurant, where all-you-can-eat pizza buffet is served .... good pizza!
Within walking distance from Skjol are the Gullfoss waterfalls and Geyser, that together with the National Park Thingevellir to the "Golden Ring" belong, the most famous Iceland's Attractions. I know that are in any travel guide... but there we are, all waiting impatiently for the Strokkur Geysir until he eject the hot water. Every 10 minutes, a large column of water up to 30 m is coming from inside of the earth.
In the next village Flúðir you can rent horses, or have a picnic on the river after shopping at the grocery store and wait until the horses gallop by. So we did
SOUTH
Next destination Vík í Mýrdal, the southernmost town on mainland, with a short stop in the Waterfall Seljalandsfoss. I can´t really say whether I enjoyed Vík. The bathroom of the campingsite could have been cleaner, the weather was gray and rainy and the stormy wind didnt let us sleep properly. But we met several people who were there a day earlier or later and they found it beautifully, sunny and worth to visit, especially the rock needles and the beach of black lava.
Tired and a bit disappointed about the weather we went towards Jökuösárlón, but of course we stopped at the waterfalls (Did I mention that there are waterfalls everywhere in Iceland? Yes! Like every 100m or maybe less?) and the Vatnajökull Glacier. And as expected from Iceland, the weather was sunny, but not in Jökuösárlón, there it was gray, too bad for the photos, but it was worth to stop there and walk around.
Onward to the east, about 275km from Vík í Mýrdal and 80 km from Jökuösárlón, the fishing village Höfn is located. It is better not to drive longer than 250 - 300 km in one day, so we are not that tired and can enjoy the landscape, we have stayed in Höfn. The campsite is located at the entrance of the village, but is not covered by the campingcard.
I am a big fan of fishing villages and I love old ships and small harbors like the one in Höfn. Those who like to try the local cuisine I can recommend the Pakkhús, below is the bar where you can comfortably wait with a beer until a table upstairs in the restaurant is free. There you can make a long walk to The Natural Trail (Solar System Path). Along the path is our solar system, reduced to a scala by more than 2.1 billion with Large and distance in the correct proportions. The sun is in the Óslandshæð hill, south of the village. One can also observe birds and other interesting aspects of nature along the path.
I am a big fan of fishing villages and I love old ships and small harbors like the one in Höfn. Those who like to try the local cuisine I can recommend the Pakkhús, below is the bar where you can comfortably wait with a beer until a table upstairs in the restaurant is free. There you can make a long walk to The Natural Trail (Solar System Path). Along the path is our solar system, reduced to a scala by more than 2.1 billion with Large and distance in the correct proportions. The sun is in the Óslandshæð hill, south of the village. One can also observe birds and other interesting aspects of nature along the path.
The beautiful black lava beach Stokksnes is located 12 kilometers east of Höfn, where we stopped for lunch on the way to Eskifjörður in the East Fjords.
EAST
The campsite Eskifjörður is a bit hidden at the entrance of the village, sheltered by trees and with the perfect view of the waterfall. The fishing village is located on the shore of the fjord of the same name. The red fishermen's houses on the other end of the village give Eskifjörður the typical fishing village flair. Within walking distance from the campsite is the coffee / Restaurat Kaffihúsið where we had the typical Fish and Chips for dinner.
One of the largest lakes in Iceland Lagarflójt and the fourth largest Waterfall Hengifoss are about 60 to 80 km west of Eskifjörður. What makes the Hengifoss so special, next to the Great and the beauty of course, are those reddish layers formed from volcano ash on the lava background of the waterfall. At the lakeside, there are other camping places. A local legend says that the lake hides a monster. This nature reserve also includes the largest forest in Iceland, ideal for walking.
NORTH
From Hengifoss we drove on the ring road over the highland towards Mývatn . The big black desert, the valley Möðruda and in the background the mountains show up. A wonderful panorama!
The weather in Myvatn was beautiful and sunny. But as de Camping Heiðarbær was hidden under a thick and gray fog layer and we wanted to have more of the beautiful day, we went back and put our tent at the Hlíd Cottages campsite. From there you have a beautiful view over the lake Myvatn and the staff is very nice.
The black volcanic crater Hverfjall is located 5 km south of the campsite. From there you have the best view over the valley and the lake Mývatn.
The waterfall Góðafoss is on the way to the next campsite Siglufjörður. The campsite is located right next to the harbor south of the village. The owner of the campsite recommended us the Harbour House Cafe. And here again is the small Harbour my favorite place in the town. The town has two museums, the Herring Era Museum, about the history of manufacturing Herring oil and Photographic History Museum, where the exhibition shows hundreds of cameras and photography equipment.
From here we went on the road again towards Skagaströnd. The campsite has a nice and cozy common room with kitchen and a large dining table where we meet other travelers. The next morning after a delicious breakfast in the Restaurant Borgin we drove towards the Westfjords.
WESTFJORDEN
Northwest is Tungudalur. The campsite is situated at the foot of the waterfall Bunárfoss just outside of the small town Isafjordur. The city has a small shopping mall, museums, cinema, bars and restaurants. We really liked this campsite. We spent some nice hours with other young people and guitar music in the common room. After dinner we all went to the village and drank a few beers in the bar / restaurant Humarhúsið. Unfortunately, that is only open until 23 o'clock, like all other bars we have visited so far.
Between Tungudalur and Flókulandur, the waterfall Dynjandi or Fjallfoss is located, the highest waterfall in the territory of the West Fjords.
Between Tungudalur and Flókulandur, the waterfall Dynjandi or Fjallfoss is located, the highest waterfall in the territory of the West Fjords.
Once in Flókalundur the sky was completely blue and without clouds, for the first time since we are in Iceland, the temperatures at night should be zero, the perfect conditions to see the northern lights (Aurora Boreal). But in the evening there is still time. Not far from the campsite a a small natural hot tub is located, right on the beach , where we spent the afternoon.
On the campground a few more tents were set up, some of them belong to the travelers we have met in the last days. Here we became a group and travel the rest of the days together. We wait all together for the auroras with beer and great hope. The Aurora Forecast is 3 in Scala to 9 and the sky is Clear. Around midnight the show in the sky began. At the beginning was only a thin white line over the firmament, but soon the light started to dance in the sky. The Green, purple, pink and blue lights were forming waterfalls or curtains in the sky, some times a snake and some times just a line crossing the sky.
The night was very cold and windy, so we had to sleep in the car
WEST
The next morning after breakfast, a bit tired and hungover, we drove south to Búðardalur. The campsite here is also not covered by the campingcard, but since the Camping site Laugar has closed the doors for the season, we decided to move on to Búðardalur and to spend the night. The next morning after breakfast in Dalakot guesthouse, where you can get a good price as campsite visitor, we drove towards to Ólafsvík.
Shortly before Ólafsvík, near the town Grundarfjörður, the mountain Kirkjufell is located and next to a small waterfall..but nobody can remember the name of the waterfall.
Near Ólafsvík at the westernmost edge of the Snaefellsnes peninsula, the Snæfellsjökull National Park is located. The spiers of Lóndrangar, the Volcano Snæfellsjökull and the many craters and lava fields make this place my favorite National Park in Iceland. The lava fields look like as if you are on other Planet! This night in Ólafsvík we had good luck with the northern lights again! This time we did not wait long, because they appeared at sunset.
The next morning we say farewell to three of the Travel-friends, they needed to take a flight back home. The rest of us drove to Akranes. The camping site is located at the entrance of the small town right on the beach. At sunset we walked a bit trough the city and a along the sea to the lighthouses. The biggest lighthouse is open to the public and is also used for exhibitions and concerts. From there you can also see Reykjavik and watch the birds. The auroras this night were the most active, a great spectacle in the sky ... maybe because Iceland wanted to tell us "see you soon"? On next morning we had breakfast at the top of the lighthouse.
Reykjavík was our last stop and we said good by to the last Travel-friend. I would have liked to spend more time in the city, but after so many days in the nature, the city was too much and too busy for us, although less than 200,000 inhabitants live there. Nevertheless, we walked along the the sea promenade from the Reykjavík camping site to the town center and ate at the restaurant Sweet Pig (Sæta Svínið). The food and service here is excellent and we finally get to see Icelanders ... but also many tourists who walking the city in big groups. There are a lot of Museums and nice Cafes around the City, but I think I will have to do it next time.
The last night was short, we had to get up at 2:00 am, so the journey ended where it started in Sandgerði. We rented a cozy, warm wooden cottage with BETT for last for hours !!
To leave Iceland was not easy at all! You keep wanting for more .... Next time for sure!
A pair unpleasant facts about the tourism in Iceland.
After an article of the Iceland Review magazine (July-August 2016) the tourism brings not only benefits. The fast development of the tourism is a socially challenge for the Icelanders. For young people is increasingly difficult to find affordable flats, especially in Reykjavik because the apartments are offered more and more in AirB&B and other portals for tourists. Secret places like the Silfra, are no longer secret and popular holiday destinations or weekend destinations of Icelanders like the Golden Ring are now full of tourists and if that is not regulated, the ecosystem could suffer irreparable damage and can be lost forever. Whales are hunted for tourism, to serve on the dish in many restaurants. Only 3% of Icelanders have eaten whale, but it does not belong to the eating habits. At the moment is a petition against whale catching "Meet us don´t eat us". You can support this campaign by not eating whale or by signing the petition! Iceland is a paradise, the reason why we love it, the reason why we go there, if we don´t protect it, then we will soon no longer have it!
Eure Eliza
PS: Thanks Mandy from Minneapolis four your support with the translation ;)
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